Surfing

Byrce, Christy, and I

My favorite thing I’ve been doing since I’ve been here has been surfing. If you know me at all you know that I spend my summers living on the jersey shore, so the ocean has always been a part of my life and something that I have grow to really love. I am convinced that the ocean has some sort of healing power because no matter how I’m feeling before I go in, by the time I get out I always feel great. While I have always known the basics of surfing and messed around a bit in NJ I have never really put the effort into getting good. So I knew coming here that learning to really surf was something I wanted to do. A few weeks after I got here, around the same time I got great white, I got a used 6’1 short board. I had never surfed a short board before so the first few times out were tough, but once I got catching the waves down, I’ve been improving every time I go.

getting ready

little bush walk to the spot

I typically surf 3-4 days a week and usually ride with kerby, bryce, (aussies) and cooper (DU) but occasionally I go by myself if people are busy. I usually try to wake up around 7 and leave for the beach at 8. Its about at 10-15 min drive depending on what spot you go to. We usually surf at “the spit” or at “main beach” depending on the conditions. The swell has been pretty consistent around 2 feet with 3-foot sets on some days. I have found that the bigger waves are easier for me at the moment because I’m not very good a pumping speed out of small waves yet. I’ve taken my fair share of falls but the feeling you get after a good ride makes it all worth it. Some days it’s closing out to much to really get any good waves so we will just go for a bodysurfing session instead, which is equally as fun especially when your getting barreled in shore break.

Most of you probably know I’m a huge skier and one thing I’ve noticed is the similarities between skiing and surfing. Both depend on the weather, involve riding on a form of H20, use a type of board and are extremely fun and addicting. Even the process of getting to the mountain and getting to the surf are similar. You have to wake up early, usually have to drive, and then put on gear. (utting on and taking of a wetsuit is just as hard as ski boots) Basically surfing has taken over the void in my life caused by no skiing that occurs during the summer and I’m loving it. I’ve be filming with my underwater camera a bit so hopefully ill have enough footage for a little edit soon, which I will post here.